So, after we spent the relaxing day snorkeling and lounging at Hanauma Bay, we decided to hit up Sandies, a beach not to far from there. It's known for larger waves 4-6feet with shore breakers. When we arrived there, I realized that most of the surfers were using short boards and body boards. This was because the waves were breaking so close to shore. A long board would not work well on these short waves. These guys looked like proffessionals. Brendan, Peter and Tony decided they wanted to body surf in these waves, I first thought they were crazy. They came out of the water soaked and laughing, thrilled to be tossed about in the waves. 
After watching them have a blast for about 20 minutes, I decided that I would regret it, if I didn't join them in the waves. They were just waves, they can't be THAT bad. It was just water. If Peter could do it, then I could surely do it. I am a pretty good swimmer. Tony gave me some advice on when to go out and what to do if I get taken by the wave.
So I got in and started to swim into the crashing waves, the trick is swimming underneath them, so that you don't get flipped over as you try to get out far enough. I didn't have to swim out very far at all to catch a humongous wave with Tony, he pulled himself from the current of that wave and managed to get out of the water. I was pulled back out by the current, it was not just a wave. This was a powerful, might body of water taking my body back out. I struggled to swim to shore, but was not fast enough.
The next wave crashed over me, spinning me underwater for about 7 seconds. In those seven seconds, I thought about my neck snapping from my head pounding against the sandy bottom. I had no idea when the water would subside and I would be able to make it to the surface to breath again. That was the scariest part, not knowing when I would be able to catch my next breath. The small head in the breaking waters is my head(pic below). 
I managed to survive that wave somehow and stood up, Tony came in and helped pull me out before the next wave came pounding to the place where I got up. I was tossled around and out of breath, and the last thing my body wanted to do was run/swim as fast as possible out of the water. Tony saved me.
Above is a picture of me explaining to Tony how the waved flipped me around several times before my head finally plunged to the sandy bottom.
Even though every fathomable part of my swimsuit and hair has sand in it, I am so happy to have survived and to have realized the power of the waves. It was quite thrilling; a live, natural unpredictable rollercoaster.
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